The future marginal.

What’s happening to ‘The Marginal’?  The downtown main street that runs along the bay has always been the favourite destination for families on a Sunday stroll or joggers exercising while watching the sun set. Now piles of dredged sand and wire fences have taken over Luanda’s favourite promenade.

The Angola Field Group invites you to a presentation on The Development of Luanda’s Bay, at the Viking Club on August 25 at 8:00 PM with Kwame Gomes, a Project Manager with Baía de Luanda Project, “Projecto de Requalificação e Reordenamento Urbano da Zona Marginal”.

He will talk about the evolution of the project, the dredging, the sewage system, and the new squares and green spaces which will be developed. Kwame, who received his MSc. in Management at Universidade Nova de Lisboa in 2007, will answer all your questions about the future of the Marginal and Luanda’s waterfront.

The road system below the Forteleza will look like this when completed.


A morning in the life of Muxima, site of the biggest Christian pilgrimage in Africa where tens of thousands of Angolans go every September to pay homage to  Mama Muxima, the famous statue of Mary which resides in the Church of Our Lady of the Conception. Behind the church is a Portuguese fort built in 1599 to keep watch of commerce and traffic going up and down the Kwanza River. Muxima was the gateway to the interior of Angola and played a role in the slave trade. Muxima is the Kimbundo word for heart. All the photos below are by Susana Borges.

A estrada entre a Muxima e Caboledo, cruzando o parque da Quissama. The road between Muxima and Caboledo, crossing the Quissama National Park.


Ponte mais longa de Angola, no município de Ícolo e Bengo, província do Bengo. Longest bridge in Angola, located in Cabala, Bengo province.

A "vida" acontece em volta do rio Kwanza. Life "happens" around the Kwanza river.

Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceição, na Muxima. Church of Our Lady of the Conception, in the town of Muxima.

Children looking down at Kwanza River. 'Blessed are the little children...'

Para o almoço (depois do culto). For lunch (after the church service).

Vista do Rio Kwanza, na Muxima. View of the Kwanza river, from the banks of Muxima.

Cruz oferecida em honra de Paulo Dias de Novais, fundador da cidade de Luanda. Cross erected in honor of Paulo Dias de Novais, founder of the city of Luanda.

O símbolo da flor do lis num canhão no Forte da Muxima. The symbol of a lily flower on a cannon at Muxima Fort.

A bruxaria mistura-se com a devoção Mariana (alguns objectos no chão de uma das guaritas do Forte da Muxima). Witchcraft mixes with Marian devotion. Some objects on the floor of one of the watchtowers of Fort Muxima.

Vela acesa num canto de uma das duas casas no interior do Forte da Muxima. Candle in a corner of one of the two guard posts inside Muxima Fort.

Palavras na base da cruz em frente ao Forte da Muxima. Words on the base of the cross in front of Muxima Fort.

O rio Kwanza e a Igreja da Muxima vistos da base da Cruz. Kwanza River and the Muxima Church seen from the base of the cross.

O Forte da Muxim., The Fort of Muxima.

Chineses a pescar no Kwanza. Chinese fishing in Kwanza River.

Detalhes. Details.

O Forte da Muxima e a Cruz. The Fort of Muxima and the Cross.

Recebendo a benção para os objectos. Receiving the blessing for the objects

African Harrier in the park.


Mama Muxima attracts thousands of visitors in September.

The Angola Field Group invites you on a day trip to the province of Bengo, Sunday, July 10.  We will leave Luanda at 6:30 AM and drive east to Catete via Viana and then head south, crossing the Kwanza River at Cabala and then onto Muxima, a town where thousands of pilgrims converge in September for the ceremony of Nossa Senhora da Conceicao or Mama Muxima. We will see her statue in the small Catholic church which is a year-round destination for Angolans to come and pray. Towering above the church is the fort, built by the Portuguese in 1599 to control boats heading into the interior on the Kwanza River.

From Muxima we will enter Quicama National Park and drive westwards across the park to Cabo Ledo.  The Muxima – Cabo Ledo drive  will essentially be a transect showing some of the natural areas in the park but also revealing some of the activities one does not expect to find in a national park including increased subsistence farming, small villages, expanded major road infrastructure, effects of past oil production & current oil exploration, and increased developments along the coast like large-scale quarrying for cement at Cabo Ledo and the expanding beach/resort town of Zangano. Quicama still has a small undisturbed fenced-in part where game animals were re-introduced ten years ago but note, we will not be visiting that area. Before we leave the park we will meet Quicama Park Administrator, Miguel Savituma, who will give us a brief rundown on the park and be available to answer questions.

To sign up for this trip send an email to: angolafieldgroup@gmail.com

When you are registering for this trip please indicate:
* if you have room in your vehicle for more passengers and if so how many
* if you do not have transport and need a lift

Famous Muxima church and in background 16th century fort.


Calling all comic book aficionados and wanna-be ‘banda desenhada creators!
Angola’s comic book industry remains undeveloped despite a big potential market. When it comes to comic books, the USA is the place where they started and remains the reference point for artists wanting to develop this medium. The Angola Field Group invites you to a colorful presentation illustrated with artistic samples: ‘Comic Book Culture, Mothers and Multiculturalism in the United States, 1960-1990’ at the Viking Club, Thursday May 19, at 8:00 PM.

Historian and avid comic book collector David Brookswill show how comic book creators of this era used the medium to promote cultural diversity and teach anti-racism. He will also offer some Jungian musings on the deeper symbols behind the heroes. David will introduce local comic book creator Abraão Eba who will comment on the Angolan comic book scene and has some of his own comic books for sale at the Viking Club. David Brooks, who is Deputy Chief of Mission of the U.S. Embassy in Angola, has a PhD in Latin American History and is eager to meet Angolans interested in banda desenhada.

New post, June field trip, explore caves in KwanzaSul.  Scroll down for sign-up details.

"Don Fofo: O Morto Vivo" by Abraão Eba and Jadd Santos - one of few local comic books available.


Natural sky light reveals cavern's formations.

The Angola Field Group invites you to explore two caves in Kwanza Sul, outside the city of Sumbe.  We will depart Saturday June 4th at 6:00 AM from our meeting point, to be announced. It’s an approximate 4 hour drive from Luanda to Sumbe.  After checking into our hotel on the marginal of Sumbe, we will visit the first cave. There is a descent so good running shoes or hiking boots advisable; also there is a thick layer of fine dust on the floors of the caves. There should be time on Saturday to also see the Cubal River Gorge and the near-by forteleza.  Sunday we will get an early start back to Luanda and visit the second cave enroute. We hope to be back in Luanda by late afternoon.

We will spend Saturday night in the Sol Nacional Hotel, a comfortable colonial era building overlooking the ocean. Ocean-facing rooms are 200usd. No view is 180usd. Price includes breakfast. Saturday evening dinner will be in a restaurant on the marginal. You will need to pack lunch for both Saturday and Sunday.

* * *All Angola Field Group trips are at your own risk. We will be traveling through 3 provinces so you must have original passport with valid visa with you. An email with final times and departure point will be emailed to confirmed participants. We need to limit the number of cars so sign up as soon as possible but only if you seriously intend to go. This field trip is being organized and led by Kelse Alexander and Tako Koning.

To sign up for this trip or if you have further questions, please email Kelse: Kelse.Alexandre@bp.com

When you are registering for this trip please indicate:
* if you have room in your vehicle for more passengers and if so how many
* if you do not have transport and need a lift
* if you need a single or double room

Gorge created as Cubal River cuts through coastal plain.


The Okavango River rises in the highlands of Angola and flows over1,000 miles, passing through Namibia before entering Botswana andforming the Okavango Delta, the world's largest inland delta. Photo courtesy J. Mendelsohn.

UPDATE: THIS FIELD TRIP HAS BEEN POSTPONED UNTIL DECEMBER 2011, DATES TO BE ANNOUNCED.
Coming, July 7 to July 16, Okavango Basin Tour driving from the source in Huambo to the Delta in Botswana. This ten day camping trip will be led by Dr. John Mendelsohn, zoologist, birder and joint author of ‘Okavango River – The Flow of a Lifeline’ a book about the Okavango River’s geography and the people that are affected by it.

Transport available for hire from Huambo unless you have your own reliable four wheel drive. Return to Luanda by road or air (Maun-Windhoek-Luanda). We prefer everybody to be self-sufficient in terms of food, drinks & equipment but exceptions can be made. A fee will be levied if equipment and catering is required.

Itinerary (scroll down for map):

Thursday, July 07, 2011 Arrive in Huambo
Friday, July 08, 2011 Depart for Chicala Choholanga and overnight at Sambo
Saturday, July 09, 2011 Drive to Kubango
Sunday, July 10, 2011 Drive to Menongue
Monday, July 11, 2011 Drive to Cuito Cuanavale
Tuesday, July 12, 2011 Drive to Caiundo
Wednesday, July 13, 2011 Drive to Shamvura (Cuito confluence)
Thursday, July 14, 2011 Drive to Shakawe
Friday, July 15, 2011 Drive to Maun
Saturday, July 16, 2011 Depart for Angola, Namibia etc

We are just finalizing last details, but if you know you want to do this trip, you can sign up now by sending an email to angolafieldgroup@gmail.com. A small registration fee to secure your place will be required closer to departure date. 

Okavango Basin route. Click on map to see full size.

A dancer in scene choreographed by Ana Clara.

She was just a teenager when the newly independent Angola revolutionary government appointed her to be in charge of the only school of dance in the country. All her dance teachers had fled and suddenly, at the age of 16, Ana Clara Guerra Marques found herself to be the leading lady of dance in the new nation. The Angola Field Group invites you to screen the film Other Moves (Portuguese Outras Frases) at the Viking Club, Thursday April 07, at 8:00 PM.

Film maker Jorge Antonio will introduce his documentary that deals with the recent history of Angola and its influence on Ana Clara’s dance instruction and artistic work. Best of all, you will have a chance to meet the woman who is still at center stage of Angola’s dance world, Ana Clara. She will brief us on the Contemporary Dance Company she founded in 1991 and preview what’s coming up in this new dance season. The film is in Portuguese with English subtitles.

Ana Clara, founder of the Contemporary Dance Company of Angola.

Everybody is welcome to attend the presentation. In close cooperation with the Viking Club, this event is offered free of charge. Alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages and snacks are sold at the bar, coupons must be purchased. The Viking Bar opens at 7:30 PM. If you would like to have a map showing the location of the Club, click here to go to the Join Us page on this website. The Viking Club is on the main floor of the former Swedish Building at Rua Marien N”Guabi, No 118 in Maianga, across the street from the new Panela de Barra restaurant. We will have books on sale including more copies of Intonations by Dr. Marissa Moorman which comes complete with music CD.


Members of Contemporary Dance Company.

 

Miss Angola participating in the national vaccination campaign. Photo courtesy Africare/CORE Group.

Despite eradication efforts, the debilitating polio virus continues to infect thousands of individuals every year.  Although India, Pakistan, and Afghanistan have witnessed the largest resurgence of recent cases, Africa has also seen the continuing persistence of the virus, particularly in Angola.  Almost declared polio-free in the early 2000’s, Angola has unfortunately seen an increase in the number of reported cases over the past few years. The present polio outbreak in Angola is a serious risk to the neighbouring countries and also an acute challenge to the global polio eradication effort with the World Health Organization classifying the outbreak as an emergency.

On Thursday, March 24th, the Angola Field Group invites you to a presentation given by Africare’s Country Director, Christian Isely, and Africare’s Program Director, Dr. Peter Wirsiy. With over forty years of experience implementing development and humanitarian projects in over thirty five African countries and over twenty years of experience working in Angola, Africare (www.africare.org) is currently playing a lead role in combating the spread of polio in the provinces of Luanda, Zaire, and Kwanza Sul.  In coordination with USAID, the Gates Foundation, UNICEF, the CORE Group, the Salvation Army, Catholic Relief Services, Save the Children, and World Vision, Africare is ramping up efforts to increase vaccine coverage.  Come learn about this dreadful disease, the epidemic in Angola, and the current drive to finally eliminate it from the country.

Everybody is welcome to attend. The talk will be in English. In close cooperation with the Viking Club, this event is offered free of charge. Alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages and snacks are sold at the bar, coupons must be purchased. The Viking Bar opens at 7:30 PM! You can download a map showing the location of the Viking Club on this website’s Join Us page. The Viking Club is on the main floor of the former Swedish Building at Rua Marien N”Guabi, No 118 in Maianga, across the street from the new Panela de Barra restaurant.

Community volunteers vaccinating a child. Photo courtesy Africare/CORE Group.

Imagine that it is a few days after payday in late colonial Luanda, 1972 for example. You don new duds custom ordered from your favourite tailor or seamstress – for men, low at the hip and wide at the ankle, and for women, a natty short-waisted jacket, big fabric buttons, an A-line skirt, and an African print head wrap to match. Outside the club you stand in line with others equally resplendent in new or newly pressed attire, undaunted by the dust of unpaved musseque streets.  The air is tinged with the scent of grilling chicken and animated by the polite greetings of friends, cousins and acquaintances (handshakes for the gentlemen, kisses on the cheeks for the ladies). You can hear the band inside checking their instruments and in the background plays the great Franco song, “On Entre OK, On Sort KO” (translated ‘You enter OK and leave KO’). Meanwhile, you wait for the bouncer’s scrutiny to produce approval, registered only as he steps aside to let you in. As you pay the entrance fee with Portuguese tender and step across the lintel, you leave Portuguese rule behind.

On Thursday, February 24 the Angola Field Group invites you to step across the lintel, back to the late colonial period (roughly 1945–74) and hear a presentation about how Angolans in the musseques (shantytowns) used music to talk back to their colonial oppressors and what they, the urban poor, hoped to gain from independence. Our presenter, Dr. Marissa Moorman, is an assistant professor of African history at Indiana University, Bloomington USA and lived in Angola off and on from 1997 to 2002. She is presently in Angola researching the history of radio and the Cold War in Angola as part of a Fulbright Hays fellowship plus an American Council of Learned Societies fellowship. She is the author of the book Intonations published in 2008 and we will have a few copies for sale at the presentation. Find out more about the book at www.ohioswallow.com/book/Intonations. The book comes with a CD of music from the era.

Intonations, by Dr. Marissa Moorman.

Everybody is welcome to attend. The talk will be in English. In close cooperation with the Viking Club, this event is offered free of charge. Alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages and snacks are sold at the bar, coupons must be purchased. The Viking Bar opens at 7:30 PM! You can download a map showing the location of the Viking Club on this website’s Join Us page. The Viking Club is on the main floor of the former Swedish Building at Rua Marien N”Guabi, No 118 in Maianga, across the street from the new Panela de Barra restaurant.

 

Gabela Akalat, endemic to the central scarp forests of Angola; endangered. Photo courtesy Michael Mills.

THIS FIELD TRIP IS NOW FULL. On Sunday, February 20th the Angola Field Group has the opportunity to go birding with South African bird expert, Michael Mills. A professional birding guide, Michael has been coming to Angola to study birds since 2003. (Scroll down to previous post to read his bio.) We will be heading northeast, taking the Caxito – Uige road where there are still some stands of forests and where the endemic Turaco can be found. In order to get in some morning birding, we will be leaving the city at 5:00AM. This will be a full day trip and no guarantee that we will be back in Luanda before dark. A four wheel drive vehicle is necessary. We must keep numbers to a strict limit so please only sign up if you’re serious about going. Final trip details including our meeting location will be given once you’ve signed up and are confirmed for this trip.

Monteiro's Bushshrike, endemic to the central scarp forests of Angola; data deficient. Photo courtesy Michael Mills.

When you are registering for this trip please indicate:

 

* if you have room in your vehicle for more passengers and how many can you take
* if you do not have transport and need a lift
* if you will be leaving from the city or from Luanda Sul

To register for this trip, email Henriette Koning at: angolafieldgroup@gmail.com. All Angola Field Group trips are at your own risk.

Pulitzer's Longbill endemic to Angola's central scarp forests; endangered. Photo courtesy Michael Mills.

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